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Tech Support & FAQs: Tachometers
- My new tachometer doesn't work
Some things to check before condemning the tach:
- Does the tach move freely? If you gently rotate the pointer clockwise to 2500 and release it does it return to zero smoothly? If not, please read the "My tachometer needle sticks" section below. If it does, go to step 2.
- When you apply power to the red wire with the black wire grounded, does the needle jump? If yes, go to step 3. If no recheck that you are getting 12 volts to the red wire and the ground is good. If you have power and ground and no movement then you have a defective tach. Please send it to me for repair or replacement. Send the unit to:
Bob McMullen
3 Forest Rd
Raymond NH 03077
- Verify that the tach is wired correctly for your ignition system. Your tach should be wired like an aftermarket tachometer:
- Points or Petronix: Green tach wire connects to the distributor ( - ) side of the coil.
- MSD: Green tach wire plugs into the TACH PORT on the side of the MSD box. DO NOT use the MSD Tach Adapter.
- Mallory Hi-Fire: Check your wiring instructions, but the yellow lead is usually the tach lead. Connect the green wire from the tach to it.
- Duraspark or HEI: Connect the green wire from the tach to the TACH connection on the coil (Duraspark) or distributor cap (HEI).
These are general directions. The best thing to do is check with the manufacturer of your ignition system. For wiring purposes you are connecting an AutoMeter type electronic tachometer.
- My tachometer needle sticks
Chances are the pointer assembly was jammed down onto the pivot shaft. You can very gently pull up on the pivot point to raise the pointer assembly. Do not pry on the pointer itself. Be very careful - if you pull the pointer assembly off you will lose calibration.
Honestly, the best thing to do in this case is send it to me with a note explaining what happened. I will repair it and send it back to you at no charge. Send the unit to:
Bob McMullen
3 Forest Rd
Raymond NH 03077
- What about the original tach wiring?
If you have an XR7 or other model that came with a factory tach, you will need to install a jumper in the factory plug to complete the ignition circuit. You can use the original wiring as the 12VDC switched power source for your tach as well. Simply connect the red wire from the tach into the jumper.
- My tachometer is bouncing around at all speeds - what's wrong?
Depending on your ignition system you may need a line filter for your tach signal. This inline filter costs around $25.00 and is available here or from Classic Instruments. There is a wiring diagram for the SN20 in the Miscellaneous Wiring Diagrams section.
- My tachometer needle is on the wrong side of the stop pin!
This can happen if the tach loses signal or voltage while the needle is beyond it's 'tipping point". This point is around 3500 RPM on a 6000 tach and 4500-5000 on an 8000 RPM dial. Caution: DO NOT try to lift the pointer over the stop pin! To correct this you have two choices:
- Take the tach out and manually rotate the pointer counter-clockwise back to zero
or
- Reconnect the tachometer leads, start the engine and rev it past the tipping point. Once past the tipping point the needle will become active again. Reduce the RPMs to idle and shut down the engine. The needle will rest on the stop correctly.
- What changes do I need to make to use one of your converted tachs?
The only changes are to the wiring. The converted tach will bolt right in using the original mounting holes and hardware.
- What do you mean by "hold for my core"?
If you are sending me your gauge as a core you do not have to pay the (refundable) core charge, but I will not ship your order until your core arrives. If you do not want to wait that long you can pay a core charge when you order, I will ship your gauge and then send you a check for the core charge when your core arrives here.
- What do you mean by white pointer or orange pointer?
Some gauges had an orange pointer, or needle. Some folks want their white pointer changed to orange. It's easier for me to keep track of what someone wants when the pointer color is included in the order.
- What orange paint do you use for the pointer?
I use Testor's Model Paint - #1628 "Competition Orange".
- My factory tachometer stopped working. Can you fix it?
If by 'fix' you mean 'convert', sure. I do not repair or calibrate the OEM movements or circuitry.
- My factory tachometer doesn't work. Can you convert it?
Certainly. I do not use the original movements or circuitry. I replace them with MODERN components.
- Do you convert plastic or metal case tachometers?
I can convert either style.
- Can I use a shift light?
Sure. Your tachometer is the same electronically as most aftermarket (Autometer, Sun, VDO) tachometers. Just buy a shift light add-on kit from Jegs or Summit and wire it per the manufacturer's instructions.
- I've read/heard/been told that I should NEVER convert my tach to the minus side of the coil. Is that true?
Yes, it is true that you should not have your old technology original movement converted.
No, it is not true that you shouldn't convert your tach. I can replace your 40+ year old movement and circuitry with a modern lifetime warranty tach movement for a fraction of the price of getting it repaired. And it comes with a LIFETIME warranty.
Tech Support & FAQs: Volt Meters
- My Volt Meter doesn't work.
Check that it is wired correctly. A quick test is to reverse the wiring. You won't hurt the gauge by doing this and reversed wires is the most common reason for a new gauge to not work. Also, make sure that you have a good ground and that your power source is live when the key is on.
- Do I have to use a switched power source?
If you don't the gauge will slowly drain your battery.
- I wired my gauge backwards. Did I damage it?
Nope. Wire it right & it will work.
- Why does the needle disappear when the key is off?
You have an older gauge with no stop, or your stop pin is missing. Send it back to me & I will add a stop pin.
- What do you mean by "hold for my core"?
If you are sending me your gauge as a core you do not have to pay the (refundable) core charge, but I will not ship your order until your core arrives. If you do not want to wait that long you can pay a core charge when you order, I will ship your gauge and then send you a check for the core charge when your core arrives here.
- What do you mean by white pointer or orange pointer?
Some gauges had an orange pointer, or needle. Some folks want their white pointer changed to orange. It's easier for me to keep track of what someone wants when the pointer color is included in the order.
- What orange paint do you use for the pointer?
I use Testor's Model Paint - #1628 "Competition Orange".
Tech Support & FAQs: Headlight Relay Kits
- My headlights don't work
Things to check:
- Do the lights work without the relay boxes (factory connections)?
If yes, goto step 2.
If no, you have an unrelated issue. Check your fuses, headlight switch, battery, all connections, etc.
- When you turn the lights on and off does the controller box click?
If yes, check your power feed from the battery to the controller box.
If no, check that you have the correct kit for your car: the controller plug with a silver dot on it plugs into the main harness of the vehicle. The controller plug(s) with no silver dot connect to the headlight harness. Early years (67-68) also have an A on one of the mounting ears of the controller. If you do have the wrong year contoller(s) contact me to get them exchanged.
- Do your kits work with 2 headlight systems?
Yes they do.
- What's the main difference between the Mini and the Full kit?
The Mini uses one relay per circuit - low & high and one circuit breaker for all the lights. Much the same as if you added relays 'the old fashioned way'. The Full kit has seperate relays for each circuit and additional circuit protection for each side.
- What Halogen bulbs should I use?
Direct replacement halogen bulbs are available from most car parts stores. For 4 headlight systems as #5001 (low beam - outer) and #5006 (high beam - inner) bulbs. For two headlight systems get #6014 and make sure it says HALOGEN on the box. These bulbs will go right in with no modifications.
- Does your kit help if I keep my regular (non-halogen) bulbs?
Definitely. Many people do not switch their bulbs after installing a relay kit because of the improvement.
- What kind of plugs will your HRKP have for the motors?
I do not know yet. The prototypes have no plugs and to keep costs down I may continue that practice into production.
General FAQs:
- Do you convert dials to white face?
No, I do not.
- Do you do speedometers?
Nope, no speedometers. Sorry.
- Will you recommend someone that does speedometers?
Nope. I was taught that if you can't say something nice...
- I've read/heard/been told that I should NEVER convert my tach to the minus side of the coil. Is that true?
Yes, it is true that you should not have your old technology original movement converted.
No, it is not true that you shouldn't convert your tach. I can replace your 40+ year old movement and circuitry with a modern lifetime warranty tach movement for a fraction of the price of getting it repaired. And it comes with a LIFETIME warranty.
- Do you buy cores?
Yes. I buy usable tachometers, clock deletes and amp meters for cores. The don't have to work, but they do need to be in good shape. Please refer to the 'Cores' section at the bottom of each product page for details.
- Do you take cores as partial payment or in trade?
Yes I do. Contact me and we will work something out.
- I have heard that you let people test your new products. How do I get in on that?
If you are interested in field testing something, click here.
- I am interested in a product but it's "in developement". Can I order one now?
You can't order one, but if you email me I will put you on a list and contact you as soon as the product is available.
- Do you fix or convert clocks?
Yes, I do basic clock repair. No, I do not convert the movements to quartz.
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